Arnavut Ciğeri, or Albanian Liver, dates back to the Ottoman era, when Istanbul was a melting pot of communities and culinary traditions. Albanian cooks were often employed in palace kitchens and brought their own recipes and techniques, blending them with Turkish ingredients and tastes.

Over time, this humble liver dish became a street-side favorite. In Balat and Fener, you’ll still find small shops frying up cubes of liver to order, usually topped with raw onions, chopped parsley, and a dash of sumac. It’s served warm, with bread on the side, and always without fuss.

Despite its deep roots in Istanbul’s culture, Arnavut Ciğeri has stayed mostly off the radar internationally. You won’t find it at Turkish restaurants abroad, and if you do, it won’t taste like it does here.

This is everyday food, but also deeply nostalgic. Locals grew up with it. For many, it’s the taste of childhood, of neighborhood hangouts, of home.

Arnavut Ciğeri Recipe: Bring a Slice of Istanbul to Your Table

Serves 3–4 people

Ingredients

• 500g lamb or veal liver (cut into small cubes)
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• 1 tsp salt
• ½ tsp black pepper
• 1 cup flour (for dredging)
• Sunflower or vegetable oil (for frying)

For Garnish:

• 1 large red onion, thinly sliced
• A handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tsp sumac
• Lemon wedges (optional)

Instructions

First, rinse the liver quickly under cold water and then pat each piece dry. Don’t skip this — the flour won’t stick properly if the liver is wet, and it’ll splatter like crazy once it hits hot oil.

Set out a shallow bowl and mix in the flour, a good pinch of cumin, paprika, salt, and just a bit of black pepper. Drop the liver pieces in and gently coat them. You can shake the bowl side to side or use your hands, either works. Just make sure every cube is covered.

In a wide pan, heat the oil, enough to give a shallow fry, not deep. Wait until it’s hot enough that a flick of flour sizzles. Add the liver carefully, without crowding the pan. Let them cook for about three minutes on one side, then turn once and cook a couple more minutes. They should be golden but still soft inside. Set them aside on a plate lined with paper towels.

While the liver rests, slice a red onion into thin half-moons. Mix that with chopped parsley and sumac in a small bowl. The sumac gives it a nice sour note that cuts through the richness of the liver.

Serve it all while warm. Lay the liver out on a plate, scatter the onion mix over the top, and serve with fresh bread. A wedge of lemon on the side doesn’t hurt, either.

Tip: Soak the Liver in Milk or Vinegar Before Cooking. This helps draw out excess blood and neutralize any bitterness while tenderizing the liver. Put raw liver cubes in cold milk or a water-vinegar mix (1 tbsp vinegar to 240ml water) for 30 minutes to 1 hour, then pat them dry thoroughly before dredging in flour.  

Local Flavor, Local Setting: Why It Tastes Different in Balat

In the winding streets of Balat, you’ll often find this dish served in mismatched dishes, in eateries where the décor hasn’t changed in decades. It’s not just the flavor that matters, it’s the atmosphere: the call to prayer in the background, the scent of roasted chestnuts from a nearby vendor, the quiet chatter of regulars at the next table.

This is the Istanbul most tourists miss.

What to Look for in Istanbul’s Food Markets

If you want to cook this dish back home, Istanbul’s markets can offer ingredients (and memories) you won’t find in grocery stores abroad. Wander through the old spice markets near Eminönü, or the Saturday bazaar in Balat, and keep your eye out for:

• Freshly ground sumac: tangy and fragrant, perfect for topping
• Dried parsley or local herbs: sold in bunches from open sacks
• Ottoman-style serving trays: often secondhand, perfect for presenting the dish
• Wrought-iron pans or copperware: for authentic frying and a beautiful kitchen keepsake

Don’t be shy—chat with the vendors. Many have been selling liver and spice for generations and will share tips gladly.

Staying Connected While You Explore Istanbul

If you're planning to walk the backstreets of Balat or want to find the best place for Arnavut Ciğeri without getting lost, JetSet eSIM makes it easy.

With the Turkey JetSet eSIM, you can:

• Look up recipe tips or ingredient names in Turkish
• Navigate Istanbul’s quiet districts without relying on public Wi-Fi
• Share your culinary discoveries with friends in real time
• Translate menus or chat with vendors at the market

No need to queue for a local SIM or deal with roaming charges. JetSet eSIM keeps you connected while your hands are full with spices, snacks, or shopping bags.